The history of Goth subculture
The Goth subculture, often simply referred to as “Goth,” is a distinct and diverse cultural movement that emerged in the late 1970s and early 1980s, primarily within the United Kingdom. It is characterized by its unique fashion, music, literature, and visual aesthetics, as well as its philosophical and ideological perspectives. The term “Goth” originally referred to a style of music rooted in post-punk and alternative rock, but it has since evolved to encompass a broader cultural identity.
Origins
The origins of the Goth subculture can be traced back to the late 1970s with the emergence of bands like Siouxsie and the Banshees, Bauhaus, and The Cure. These bands, along with others, contributed to the development of a distinctive sound that blended elements of punk rock, new wave, and dark, atmospheric melodies. The early Goths were inspired by literary works, such as those by Edgar Allan Poe and Mary Shelley, as well as by the gloomy aesthetics of Gothic architecture and art.
During the 1980s, the Goth subculture gained momentum, particularly in cities like London, where clubs and venues provided spaces for Goths to socialize and express themselves. The fashion of the Goth subculture also began to take shape during this time, characterized by black clothing, leather, lace, fishnet stockings, and dramatic makeup. Goths often adorned themselves with jewelry featuring symbols such as crosses, ankhs, and pentagrams.
Throughout the 1990s and into the 21st century, the Goth subculture continued to evolve, incorporating elements of industrial, electronic, and metal music into its repertoire. Gothic fashion likewise diversified, with various substyles emerging, including Traditional, Romantic, Cyber, and Victorian Goths. The internet also played a significant role in connecting Goths from around the world, facilitating the exchange of ideas, music, and fashion trends.
Characteristics
The Goth subculture is characterized by its embrace of darkness, morbidity, and romanticism. Goths often have a fascination with themes of death, decay, the macabre, but also the supernatural and mysterious. This aesthetic is reflected not only in their fashion and music but also in their artwork, literature, and cultural interests. Since Goth has its origin in post-punk, some basic beliefs, such as the leftist mentality and anti-conformity, are shared with the Punk subculture. While Punk has a stronger emphasis on political and social aspects (like left-wing political activism, and having an anti-authoritarian, anti-fascist and anti-consumerism attitude), Goth focuses on mainly the music, but also fashion and lifestyle.
Music is the central aspect of the Goth subculture, with bands like The Sisters of Mercy, Joy Division, Bauhaus and Fields of the Nephilim considered seminal influences. Goth music typically features melancholic lyrics, haunting melodies, and atmospheric instrumentation. While traditional Goth rock remains a cornerstone of the subculture, various offshoot genres, such as darkwave, deathrock, gothic metal or dark electronic music like EBM and industrial have also gained popularity among Goths.
Fashion also plays a crucial role in Goth culture, serving as a means of self-expression and identity. Goths often dress in dark, dramatic attire, incorporating elements of Victorian, medieval and punk fashion. Black is the predominant color, symbolizing their love for the dark and mysterious, rebellion, and individuality. Accessories such as chokers, studded belts, and platform boots are also common among Goths, as are hairstyles featuring bold colors, teased hair, elaborate braids, dreadlocks and asymmetrical cuts.
Misconceptions and Stereotypes
Despite its rich cultural history and diversity, the Goth subculture is often subject to misconceptions and stereotypes. Common misconceptions include associating Goths with Satanism, violence, and depression, as well as portraying them as antisocial or morbidly obsessed individuals. In reality, the vast majority of Goths are kind-hearted, peaceful, creative, and intellectually curious individuals who value self-expression, open-mindedness, and acceptance of diversity.
Conclusion
Since Goth is a music based subculture, most Goths believe you can also be a part of it without dressing goth, as long as you listen to goth music and understand and share the underlying core values and mindset. In fact, many Goths are unable to dress in goth fashion styles due to having a corporate job, a disability or illness or simply don’t have the time. While they might appreciate seeing others dressed up, some might also just not have the confidence or might not like it on themselves. For some Goths this is a controversial topic though, as they see anti-conformity as an important part of goth mindset. In my opinion everyone should choose their own style and dress however they feel comfortable, especially since Goth focuses more on sincere self-expression than just blind rebellion.
Either way, the Goth subculture continues to thrive as a vibrant and dynamic community of individuals united by their shared love of music, fashion, art, and literature. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, Goth culture serves as a source of inspiration, solidarity, and empowerment for its members, fostering a sense of belonging in an often alienating and conformist society and giving the freedom of expressing oneself free of judgment. As the world evolves, so does the Goth subculture, adapting to new influences and technologies while remaining true to its core values of individuality, creativity, and authenticity.
Really well researched and written! What do you think about the fact that many people mix up goth and punk so much? Most of us don’t care as much about politicial activism and boycotting everything than many punks. Online I’ve seen people bashing others for buying from certain brands and all that but I’m in the goth scene for around 35 years and honestly just let these teens live. They’re trying to express themselves and find who they are… Our subculture is meant to be inclusive and being yourself while not giving a damn about society is like our number one priority.
In the end, it’s important to know the roots of the subculture, but still understand the focus is different. I heard the same from many eldergoths, saying that if they had the options to shop back then, like we do now, they would have totally dressed cool. An important element of being goth is self expression without caring what others think. Which is in goth far more important then in punk. And while the basic leftist views of punk are of course essential, the amount of activism you want to participate in is really a personal decision. In the end you can’t be perfect and usually it is mostly very young people who are bashing others and making them feel “not goth enough”. You can totally not boycott every single brand with a controversy around, I tried and it really destroyed my mental health. So, when it comes to shopping, I try to compromise – I shop responsibly, no big hauls, only things I really wear but from whatever brand sells the thing I like (and can afford!), sometimes it’s second hand, sometimes fast fashion. People need to understand most brands produce under almost the same conditions. Truly ethical production is very rare and very much not affordable for most. Not everyone is talented to DIY, many young people also start with buying fast fashion and with time DIY more and more… On top of that, if I buy a fast fashion item second hand it doesn’t make it anymore ethical. Environmetally better maybe, but not more ethical.
So yes, in the end I agree with you, we all should try to become a better person, but not at the expense of our mental health. And the same applies to political activism, which, in some areas can even be extremely unsafe.
Do what works for you and just try to work on yourself. You don’t need to be perfect! 🦇